Home construction credit

Banks finance individual projects and grant a home construction credit when the project is carried out under the aegis of a CCMI (contract for the construction of a detached house). Apart from this, the rules are the same as for any real estate loan: the future debt ratio should not exceed one third of revenues, and repayments are generally fixed rate.

Which builder get a construction credit

Banks prefer to finance houses built via a CCMI. This type of contract is governed by strict regulations. The builder must have a completion guarantee, which assures the lender that the house will actually be completed, and the signatory contractor of the CCMI is an architect or a promoter, holding a civil liability insurance and a damage guarantee ten years old.

The bank therefore grants a construction loan for both the land and the building, and offers several options to adapt to the client’s repayment capacity.

The three formulas of construction credit

The borrower can choose between three home construction loan formulas, depending on his repayment capacity. First case: if his resources allow him to support both the rent of his current home (or the interest of his current home loan) and the interest of the construction loan, the bank releases the line of credit at one time. The borrower begins to amortize as soon as the first monthly payments.

If its resources do not allow it to support these new monthly payments in addition to its current charges, the bank offers a grace period: at each call for funds from the manufacturer, it releases the amount requested and notifies the borrower. Calls for funds are specified in the CCMI and cannot be derogated from.

At each unblocked amount, the borrower pays what is called a monthly interim interest, intended to compensate the bank for the sums placed at its disposal pending completion of the work. The building code imposes a holdback of 5% of the price of the project until the buyer has accepted the delivery; once the house is accepted and declared free, the bank releases the remaining 5%. From that moment, the landlord will pay monthly installments, and begin to write off his home construction loan.

The third option is to grant a full deferral of interim interest, in addition to the deferral of monthly payments. This solution is only used if the repayment capacity of the borrower is not sufficient.

Obtain a construction loan for a house

The construction credit for a home will only be granted if the homeowner’s future debt ratio does not exceed 33% of his net taxable income.

The duration of the repayments is adjusted to obtain the ideal scenario, so as not to place the borrower in a difficult financial position. Banks offer three rate families: variable, fixed or mixed.

In France, most of the fixed-rate construction loans are used, which allows the borrower to evaluate his budget over a long period. As repayments progress, so does their purchasing power, as their incomes rise while the monthly installments of their home construction loan remain the same.

How to calculate construction costs and budgets

Whether you are creating a competitive construction estimate for a bidding project, or simply trying to figure out the costs for the construction, remodeling, or repair work you want to do, follow the steps below to ensure that your construction costs and budgets are accurate and organized and complete.

Before you begin, review all plans and specifications and consider whether you will need the services of suppliers or contractors to complete the task. If that is the case, give them the information they need to quote their construction or remodeling work as soon as possible. Generally, waiting until the last minute causes the quote to be inaccurate.

In order to ensure that you have sufficient time to receive and review the prices of your suppliers and subcontractors, set a delivery date for quotes, which must be at least one day before the tender expiration date. Ask suppliers and subcontractors to make their proposals in writing and in detail. If time does not allow, take detailed notes of the bids that you give over the phone.

If possible, obtain at least three estimates. Construction costs and budgets for subcontractors typically cover a considerable scale of prices and if you have three estimates for each job, you can make a better informed decision about the number you should use in your construction budgets. As the quote process progresses, make sure your subcontractors receive any changes or revisions you make.

Once you have the estimates in your possession, prepare a comparison sheet and list the major items that subcontractors will include. Often, contractors who present estimates of the same job include different elements in their proposals. Use the comparison sheet as a guide to review and collate the quotes you receive. Add money to a contractor’s proposal for something it has excluded and others have included.

Make a summary of estimates for all your costs and tenders. Divide all costs into three basic categories:

Construction materials costs include all materials, labor, equipment, etc. needed to build a building (e.g. foundations, windows, roof).

Costs not related to construction or remodeling, also referred to as general conditions costs or general direct costs, include all materials, equipment and costs directly attributable to the performance of the work but which are not a real part of it (for example , temporary sanitation services, waste containers, supervision costs, the cost of electricity for the project).

General overheads include other costs necessary to maintain your business, which are not directly attributable to the project (for example, rent, telephone, office electricity). Identify and quantify these costs and then increase your hourly labor rate to cover them or add a budget line to your construction budget for each project you are calculating.

The costs of general (non-production) conditions may include 20 or 30 budget items, depending on the complexity of the project. Make a summary sheet and list the various costs and items you envisage. Many of these are directly related to the time taken to complete each task, so you should have an idea of ​​the duration of the project. For example, if you estimate that you will need two temporary health services a week, you will need to know how many weeks to use them to determine the total cost.

Once you have the costs of construction materials and the general conditions, determine the partial total. Your profits, overhead, and insurance costs are usually calculated as a percentage of that total. Combine these costs with your partial total and you get the full estimated cost.

Calculate the cost of work now

Before you start any quantity deduction of the drawings, read the specifications in writing. Often, the specifications manual includes special requirements or important differences and you must note them before continuing.

When you begin reviewing the blueprints to determine the amount of building materials and workers needed to do the work, these suggestions will help you stay organized:

First, check all the blueprints to get an idea of ​​what the job will require.

When making your detailed deductions, use felt-tip pens or colored pencils to mark the drawings. So you know when you have included something.

There are many ways to get the amounts you will need to prepare the estimates. Some contractors use software programs, many use special business forms and others have created their own forms. In any of these you use, note the number of the sheet of the plane in the article. This has four objectives:

If you first calculate the quantities of all materials, it is easier to go back to allocate labor costs if you know the detail you were considering. Floor-level installation of a 2 × 4 wood around a window opening requires much less work than one to 40 feet in the air under an eave.

The detailed description and the additional sheet make it easier for someone to review your work.

In the event of a revision of the plan, you can easily compare the new details with the previous ones and verify the impact of the change.

When the project is under construction, you will be able to more accurately compare the actual costs of materials and fieldwork. If in your estimate the work appears in a lump sum, it will be impossible to determine where it was calculated in less and where in more.

When calculating quantities, be sure to know the scale used in the drawings and details. Check the scale with other flat sheets; sometimes the architect scores an incorrect scale on the plans. If you think you are viewing 1/4 inch drawings and are actually 3/16 inch, your quantities will be wrong and this will significantly influence your labor and material costs.

Once you have calculated the amounts of building materials, add an appropriate amount for the waste material. Next, determine the cost of materials and labor to install them, as well as other related equipment costs.

Contact your supplier to find out the building materials you need and if they do not give you a price for the total amount, find out the prices per unit and determine the total costs of materials. For example, you need 434 feet of 2 × 4 pressure treated wood. Your vendor sells that material in 16-foot lengths, at $ 15 each. Divide 434 linear feet between 16 feet and round the figure to the next complete piece. In this case, you would need 28 2 × 4 lumber, 16 feet long, for a total of $ 420. Do not forget things such as screws, glue, sales taxes, delivery service charges and other incidental costs. Once the material costs have been calculated, proceed to calculate the labor costs.

Calculating labor costs requires experience. Concentrate first on the larger budget items, since an error in them can lead to a large difference in total estimated costs. Depending on the amount of materials, try to determine the rate of production. For example, your project has a wood base of 1,250 linear feet. Calculate that your carpenter can measure, cut and install 20 feet of base per hour. Divide 1,250 feet out of 20 to determine you will need 63 hours. Remember that someone will download the material and distribute it to the various sections of the project. This also requires time, so you must add this extra time to the hours you calculated to install the base.

Multiply the hours per hour rate. Hourly rates vary widely but the basic points are the gross hourly wage, plus benefits, and state and local taxes. Many contractors add a value to the hourly rate to cover a portion of their overhead. Once you have the total number of hours for each budget line, add up the total hours and multiply them to get the labor costs.

The next thing you should consider for all construction budgets is the costs of construction equipment. Do you need to buy or rent a scaffold or perhaps a motorized raised basket? Once again, time is a key factor. Determine how much time the equipment will need to calculate the cost correctly.

Once materials, labor, and equipment costs have been completed, get the total cost for that section of the estimate. The goal is to include everything in a format that you can follow later, or use in future estimates for comparison purposes.

Finally, have your mathematical operations reviewed on the worksheet and material sheets, and prepare your tender.

What is the asphalt primer oil?

Many roads and access roads consist of an asphalt surface instead of concrete. Asphalt offers many long-term benefits, including force to support many vehicles through it. However, asphalt impregnated oil may deteriorate the road surface or road. Oil asphalt primers provide control process oil for the preservation of a substrate of asphalt.

Asphalt Characteristics

Asphalt is a mixture of gravel, sand, stone and asphalt cement. Apart from its durability, it provides a final soft asphalt surface. The smooth surface helps conserve vehicle fuel and less harmful emissions into the atmosphere emanating. Although asphalt provides a smooth surface, tire grip easily the way for a safer travel. Flanking walls noise concrete roads are not necessary with asphalt roads because the asphalt is naturally quiet vehicle moves through it.

Oil purpose primer

Asphalt Primer not removes oil or oil absorbing asphalt but sealed inside the stained area. Primers consist of a basic oil emulsion latex concentrate. Typically, oil asphalt primer is applied to oil stains before sealing the road or driveway sealant pavement. Combine oil primer with a final sealant hidden oil stain and prevents them from resurfacing with asphalt sealing.

Oil primer application

The asphalt surface must be thoroughly cleaned before application of oil primer. Typically, a professional repair company specialized asphalt used torches to burn oil stains. Oil stains heating removes any remaining residue before applying the primer oil. After the stain is cool, workers apply primer oil to the individual spots with a gun, roller or brush. The surface can be covered with asphalt pavement sealant, effectively sealing and hide the stains of oil once the oil primer is completely dry.

Profit oil primer

Receiving asphalt surfaces without priming sealant applications that will eventually have oil stains oil stains resurface. As resurgent oil, cracks and damage to the asphalt surface, generating a weak substrate. Asphalt continues to weaken as the oil spreads over the surface, aggravated by weight and vehicle movement. Oil primers preserve the composition of asphalt, avoiding weakens and contributes to longevity.


Asphalt primer oil works well in isolated oil stains. Asphalt surface oil extensively damaged still requires removing asphalt patches and resurfacing. Consult a business professional individual assessment asphalt road repair or driveway. Each is individually dyed surface oil, which requires trained to properly repair an appointment eye.

Tips asphalt driveway repair

The two main problems when it comes to repairing asphalt are cracks and holes. Although both are similar, they need to be repaired in various ways. Better make repairs in hot weather, as the asphalt becomes more flexible and easier to work with. Some moisture or humidity will not affect cleaning the hole or crack filler, but as a rule, keep as dry as possible area.

Cracks and holes

The only way is to repair cracks with a filling of rubberized asphalt. This can be obtained at any hardware store and is set in a glue gun and is easily dispensed. If possible, prepare all cracks and holes with a commonly known as “input layer” composed liquid asphalt, as this allows more grip power between the patch and create a stronger and better link.

Pull weeds from cracks and holes; remove all loose particles of asphalt, then use a water hose to spray and dirt from them. Any crack which is beyond 1/4 can be filled with sand to that depth. If you have a crack of 2 inches deep, fill to 1 3/4 inches and then place the rubberized asphalt filler. If your cracks are larger than 1/2 inch wide, considered as holes and fill them with a standard composite cold press. You can buy cold press compound in any hardware store. Press the compound as crack or hole, using a trowel and push down to level. You can also drive forward and backward over a repair to level.


Depressions in the asphalt, sometimes called “baths” are caused by uneven settlement areas. Depressions often collect water. Because they are less than 1 inch deep, they are repairable. Use a broom to remove all dirt and debris, hose down the area. If depression is fat, remove fat with a stiff brush dishwasher detergent and rinse thoroughly. Prime the area first with the input layer to improve the bond between the surface of the patch and driveway. Use cold patch asphalt to fill in depression. Once filled, even out depressions for driving a car above. Place a plate down on the asphalt patch if much starts sticking to the tires.

Unrepairable problems

You can effectively repair cracks, holes and small depressions however; there are times when the road repair is not possible. If your car tires have left deep impressions on the surface, it is a sign of poor execution when the unit was established, and cannot be repaired. An unstable surface where the unit or lean pulls in cold weather, or worse, when in fact the buckles in places due to the spring season, tree roots or other catastrophic event, committed thawing on the surface. Repair only to a situation like this is to replace the entire entry.


As obvious, after making repairs to the road, brush or squeegee sealant on top. You can seal cracks quickly, but the holes and depressions need time to heal first. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, but generally, the depressions may be sealed in about 24 hours. The holes may be sealed within 12 to 36 hours. Then heal holes allow an additional two to five days before sealing the entire entry, according to the manufacturer’s instructions for the type of sealant used.


Never let weeds or debris from a crack or hole. Not obtain adequate adhesion of patching means. Do not use a torch to seal cracks. Asphalt is petroleum-based sealant as it is, so all accomplished with a torch to burn the sealer and possibly start a fire. Sealants are not made to patch the holes. If you fill a crack sealant, initially it may look good, but the crack will appear. It is the only way to seal cracks with a rubber compound, and the only way to fill holes or depressions with asphalt cold-pressed.


How to repair potholes in the entrance to your home

Potholes or other damage to your entry, most of the times, asphalt can be filled with cold asphalt filler. Here are some steps to help you have a successful project to repair your input.

  1. Measured or estimated the amount of filler will need to run your repairs. A small hole, less than two square feet, can be repaired with about 50 pounds of cold asphalt mix to fill.
  2. Choose asphalt filler want to use for your service. Cold asphalt filler (a mixture of asphalt, tar and stones) is sold in plastic bags similar to cement bags weighing 50 pounds and tubs ranging from one size five gallons.
  3. Land and clean loose debris, removing them from the hole with a garden shovel, spoon masonry or other suitable tool. If the material hole is dry land, you might want to use a hose to moisten because tar will not stick to dry land.
  4. Let the sun dry hole if no water in it because tar will not stick to the wet ground. You can also use a fan or a hair dryer if you hurry.
  5. Fill in holes that are more than 7 or 10 inches deep with a material that can be compacted, like clay, ground concrete or crushed limestone. For repairs where the material under the patch cannot be compacted with standard methods, such You may want to dig the hole and pour concrete up to two centimeters below the level of the finished floor to stabilize the area.
  6. Fill the hole with asphalt filling up one centimeter above the adjacent pavement. This will leave the finished patch flush with the pavement after it is compacted.
  7. Compact it with a manual compactor plate compactor gasoline or even a hammer to very small holes. Make sure the mixture of cold asphalt is packed firmly into the hole or find that the patch will fall very fast when exposed to traffic.
  8. It covers the patch, if possible. You can put a table or a piece of plywood over the repair for a few days to make sure it hardens again, but this is optional. If you strongly compact, you can drive on it immediately.
  9. Clean your tools and any spilled material around your patch and admire your work.


  • If you want, you can compact the pavement adjacent to the patch to patch material can support the banks, weakened by the event that caused the original bump.
  • Tar fall off your hands with a good mechanical hand cleaner. Be careful not to use solvents such as Stoddard solvent, lubricants or other chemicals, as they can be dangerous for your skin.
  • For repairs of more than two square feet, plate compactor is very useful

How to level the sand base for patio flooring

Placement of concrete or brick pavers for a patio requires more than simply placing pavers on the existing landscape. To ensure a stable and reliable base for your patio, you must excavate the area and establish levels of support structure. The higher level of support is a layer of sand, which allows easy installation of the pavers must be completely flat for the safe installation of the paver.


  • Dig the patio area at a depth of at least 18 cm, reaching stable ground. Check with building control Department and utilities before digging to find the limitations or requirements for construction in the area the City Council and ensure you do not damage any underground cables or pipes while digging.
  • Shrink the subsurface plate compactor or manipulations to create a stable from its construction project of the hand surface. You can buy or rent these tools in DIY stores and rental centers of the plant.
  • Cover the ground with a landscape fabric layer, followed by a layer of 7.5 to 10 cm from the base paver patio or gravel. Base material spread evenly across the surface with a garden rake or hoe and then compact this level. Landscape fabric and the porous base material, helps to drain rainwater from the courtyard.
  • Place two PVC pipes about 75 cm apart near one end of the courtyard.
  • Pour sand leveling between and around the two tubes until they have filled the entire area around the pipes with sand. You should still be able to see the top of the tubes lightly through the sand.
  • The level of the sand scraping flat wooden plank on the tubes. This will scrape away excess sand, creating a layer of sand level.
  • Remove the PVC pipes sand and fill their spaces with sand until the area is completely leveled. If you work in a large courtyard, the pipes move to another place in the area of ​​installation and repeat the steps until you have created an arena based completely level.
  • Dampen the sand with a garden hose to settle. Tamping or compacting the surface once more. Once the sand level is also completely flat, you can put your pavers.

Asphalt pavement procedures

Asphalt paving is an attractive alternative to gravel or concrete. The asphalt is quite durable and easy to repair. Cracks that develop over time are filled with more asphalt and sealant can be applied every few years to help protect the color of asphalt and fill small cracks.

Manufacture of asphalt

Asphalt is made from a mixture of hot asphalt cement, sand and aggregate (rocks of different sizes). Asphalt cement is an oil-based product. The mixture is heated to 149 degrees Celsius and is spread when hot, so it is best that a company make its asphalt paving asphalt to maintain refrigeration during transport. Asphalt cools quickly once spread so on pavement may be conducted shortly after completion.

Preparing a surface

A foundation is dug about 6 to 10 inches deep. The thicker the base heavier vehicles can drive over it. The floor is made as compact as possible and authorized waste. The base is made level. Added crushed gravel and larger are used to fill the base. Coarse aggregate is used if the base is in an area of ​​soil or clay compound as having poor drainage. Gravel is gradual or evenly distributed.

Poured asphalt

Asphalt is delivered to the site and transported to a vehicle maintaining the mixture so that no separate components or freeze. Pour over hot asphalt and gravel aggregates. A spreader is used to spread asphalt hot mix. A paver is then used to mix in a layer of gravel and smooth pavement. Compressors are used to compact the pavement and thicken.

Keeping appearances

Asphalt is durable and long lasting, but some maintenance is needed to keep looking its best. A sealant can be applied when the paving is done. Asphalt sealer keeps looking shiny and full of small cracks appearing over time. Sealer should be reapplied every few years. You can also repair larger cracks. The cracks are patched and filled with hot asphalt cement, which makes the nearly invisible patch.