Tips asphalt driveway repair

The two main problems when it comes to repairing asphalt are cracks and holes. Although both are similar, they need to be repaired in various ways. Better make repairs in hot weather, as the asphalt becomes more flexible and easier to work with. Some moisture or humidity will not affect cleaning the hole or crack filler, but as a rule, keep as dry as possible area.

Cracks and holes

The only way is to repair cracks with a filling of rubberized asphalt. This can be obtained at any hardware store and is set in a glue gun and is easily dispensed. If possible, prepare all cracks and holes with a commonly known as “input layer” composed liquid asphalt, as this allows more grip power between the patch and create a stronger and better link.

Pull weeds from cracks and holes; remove all loose particles of asphalt, then use a water hose to spray and dirt from them. Any crack which is beyond 1/4 can be filled with sand to that depth. If you have a crack of 2 inches deep, fill to 1 3/4 inches and then place the rubberized asphalt filler. If your cracks are larger than 1/2 inch wide, considered as holes and fill them with a standard composite cold press. You can buy cold press compound in any hardware store. Press the compound as crack or hole, using a trowel and push down to level. You can also drive forward and backward over a repair to level.


Depressions in the asphalt, sometimes called “baths” are caused by uneven settlement areas. Depressions often collect water. Because they are less than 1 inch deep, they are repairable. Use a broom to remove all dirt and debris, hose down the area. If depression is fat, remove fat with a stiff brush dishwasher detergent and rinse thoroughly. Prime the area first with the input layer to improve the bond between the surface of the patch and driveway. Use cold patch asphalt to fill in depression. Once filled, even out depressions for driving a car above. Place a plate down on the asphalt patch if much starts sticking to the tires.

Unrepairable problems

You can effectively repair cracks, holes and small depressions however; there are times when the road repair is not possible. If your car tires have left deep impressions on the surface, it is a sign of poor execution when the unit was established, and cannot be repaired. An unstable surface where the unit or lean pulls in cold weather, or worse, when in fact the buckles in places due to the spring season, tree roots or other catastrophic event, committed thawing on the surface. Repair only to a situation like this is to replace the entire entry.


As obvious, after making repairs to the road, brush or squeegee sealant on top. You can seal cracks quickly, but the holes and depressions need time to heal first. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, but generally, the depressions may be sealed in about 24 hours. The holes may be sealed within 12 to 36 hours. Then heal holes allow an additional two to five days before sealing the entire entry, according to the manufacturer’s instructions for the type of sealant used.


Never let weeds or debris from a crack or hole. Not obtain adequate adhesion of patching means. Do not use a torch to seal cracks. Asphalt is petroleum-based sealant as it is, so all accomplished with a torch to burn the sealer and possibly start a fire. Sealants are not made to patch the holes. If you fill a crack sealant, initially it may look good, but the crack will appear. It is the only way to seal cracks with a rubber compound, and the only way to fill holes or depressions with asphalt cold-pressed.


How to repair potholes in the entrance to your home

Potholes or other damage to your entry, most of the times, asphalt can be filled with cold asphalt filler. Here are some steps to help you have a successful project to repair your input.

  1. Measured or estimated the amount of filler will need to run your repairs. A small hole, less than two square feet, can be repaired with about 50 pounds of cold asphalt mix to fill.
  2. Choose asphalt filler want to use for your service. Cold asphalt filler (a mixture of asphalt, tar and stones) is sold in plastic bags similar to cement bags weighing 50 pounds and tubs ranging from one size five gallons.
  3. Land and clean loose debris, removing them from the hole with a garden shovel, spoon masonry or other suitable tool. If the material hole is dry land, you might want to use a hose to moisten because tar will not stick to dry land.
  4. Let the sun dry hole if no water in it because tar will not stick to the wet ground. You can also use a fan or a hair dryer if you hurry.
  5. Fill in holes that are more than 7 or 10 inches deep with a material that can be compacted, like clay, ground concrete or crushed limestone. For repairs where the material under the patch cannot be compacted with standard methods, such You may want to dig the hole and pour concrete up to two centimeters below the level of the finished floor to stabilize the area.
  6. Fill the hole with asphalt filling up one centimeter above the adjacent pavement. This will leave the finished patch flush with the pavement after it is compacted.
  7. Compact it with a manual compactor plate compactor gasoline or even a hammer to very small holes. Make sure the mixture of cold asphalt is packed firmly into the hole or find that the patch will fall very fast when exposed to traffic.
  8. It covers the patch, if possible. You can put a table or a piece of plywood over the repair for a few days to make sure it hardens again, but this is optional. If you strongly compact, you can drive on it immediately.
  9. Clean your tools and any spilled material around your patch and admire your work.


  • If you want, you can compact the pavement adjacent to the patch to patch material can support the banks, weakened by the event that caused the original bump.
  • Tar fall off your hands with a good mechanical hand cleaner. Be careful not to use solvents such as Stoddard solvent, lubricants or other chemicals, as they can be dangerous for your skin.
  • For repairs of more than two square feet, plate compactor is very useful

How to level the sand base for patio flooring

Placement of concrete or brick pavers for a patio requires more than simply placing pavers on the existing landscape. To ensure a stable and reliable base for your patio, you must excavate the area and establish levels of support structure. The higher level of support is a layer of sand, which allows easy installation of the pavers must be completely flat for the safe installation of the paver.


  • Dig the patio area at a depth of at least 18 cm, reaching stable ground. Check with building control Department and utilities before digging to find the limitations or requirements for construction in the area the City Council and ensure you do not damage any underground cables or pipes while digging.
  • Shrink the subsurface plate compactor or manipulations to create a stable from its construction project of the hand surface. You can buy or rent these tools in DIY stores and rental centers of the plant.
  • Cover the ground with a landscape fabric layer, followed by a layer of 7.5 to 10 cm from the base paver patio or gravel. Base material spread evenly across the surface with a garden rake or hoe and then compact this level. Landscape fabric and the porous base material, helps to drain rainwater from the courtyard.
  • Place two PVC pipes about 75 cm apart near one end of the courtyard.
  • Pour sand leveling between and around the two tubes until they have filled the entire area around the pipes with sand. You should still be able to see the top of the tubes lightly through the sand.
  • The level of the sand scraping flat wooden plank on the tubes. This will scrape away excess sand, creating a layer of sand level.
  • Remove the PVC pipes sand and fill their spaces with sand until the area is completely leveled. If you work in a large courtyard, the pipes move to another place in the area of ​​installation and repeat the steps until you have created an arena based completely level.
  • Dampen the sand with a garden hose to settle. Tamping or compacting the surface once more. Once the sand level is also completely flat, you can put your pavers.

Asphalt pavement procedures

Asphalt paving is an attractive alternative to gravel or concrete. The asphalt is quite durable and easy to repair. Cracks that develop over time are filled with more asphalt and sealant can be applied every few years to help protect the color of asphalt and fill small cracks.

Manufacture of asphalt

Asphalt is made from a mixture of hot asphalt cement, sand and aggregate (rocks of different sizes). Asphalt cement is an oil-based product. The mixture is heated to 149 degrees Celsius and is spread when hot, so it is best that a company make its asphalt paving asphalt to maintain refrigeration during transport. Asphalt cools quickly once spread so on pavement may be conducted shortly after completion.

Preparing a surface

A foundation is dug about 6 to 10 inches deep. The thicker the base heavier vehicles can drive over it. The floor is made as compact as possible and authorized waste. The base is made level. Added crushed gravel and larger are used to fill the base. Coarse aggregate is used if the base is in an area of ​​soil or clay compound as having poor drainage. Gravel is gradual or evenly distributed.

Poured asphalt

Asphalt is delivered to the site and transported to a vehicle maintaining the mixture so that no separate components or freeze. Pour over hot asphalt and gravel aggregates. A spreader is used to spread asphalt hot mix. A paver is then used to mix in a layer of gravel and smooth pavement. Compressors are used to compact the pavement and thicken.

Keeping appearances

Asphalt is durable and long lasting, but some maintenance is needed to keep looking its best. A sealant can be applied when the paving is done. Asphalt sealer keeps looking shiny and full of small cracks appearing over time. Sealer should be reapplied every few years. You can also repair larger cracks. The cracks are patched and filled with hot asphalt cement, which makes the nearly invisible patch.